Dog Training: Teach your dog to heel

Preferably, using a flat collar (but a nylon mesh slip collar is okay if you need the extra "umph") and a four to six food lead, start walking your dog from a sit, saying "heel" as you move off. (If she doesn't immediately follow, a little coaxing as you continue walking away - never stop - should get her moving.

Try slapping your leg or jogging slowly to entice her.) If absolutely necessary, a gentle tug and release will help. ("tug" meaning 1/4 of a second of contact with her neck and immediate release for at least a second or two before the next tug, if necessary)Never stop to look back at your dog if she's misbehaving. Just keep moving forward. You can quickly look back, but only if you're still walking forward.Never, never, never keep a tight lead. It should always be loose, completely loose, unless you are "correcting" her for a nanosecond.

Only hold the end of the leash. Now, imagine an area to your left (assuming she's heeling on the left) that is about two feet wide and four feet long (two in front of your left arm and two behind). Your job is to expect her to remain within that "batter's box" heeling area at all times, or until you give a release command like "okay" to allow her to stop heeling. Always give a release command from a sit.On a heeling walk, she is to remain in the heeling position at all times. If she starts to walk ahead or away from your imaginary box, simply say "heel" and turn either 90 or 180 degrees away from her.

Let HER run out of leash. So, brace for the tug but don’t stop walking. Yes. The first few times, she'll invariably whip around, then try to catch up with you. Once she's back in the batter's box, praise her and say "heel", then praise again. Continue in this direction for a little while. Don't immediately turn back to the previous direction, if possible. Perfect heeling-turns and an automatic sit will come later. For now you're just concentrating on heeling while moving forward.What you're teaching is for the dog to pay attention to you, and where you're going...not so much teaching something as abstract as walking in some specified position. That's why just pulling back on the leash doesn't work. There's no lesson in that. All the dog learns is that her owner sometimes cruelly jerks her neck for no apparent reason. When you do the turns (and the dog runs out of leash, so it's uncomfortable for her), she learns she has to pay attention to where you're going. That is a lesson dogs readily pick-up. If she doesn't pay attention to where you're going, this leash-thing is unpleasant.

By doing the turns, you're teaching the dog to pay attention to where you're going. That just can't happen if all you do is pull her leash.

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Dog Training: Stop your dog pulling on the lead

Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.

So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.

In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.

There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.

If your dog is trying to pull and getting nowhere, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG, give him a treat and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.

I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.

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Dog Training: Boundary and Perimeter Training (Don't let your dog run away)

The doorbell rings. Your dog:

(a) Follows behind you, patiently waiting as you open the door;
or
(b) Bolts for the door in a mad rush to beat you there, forcing you to use
your legs as a barricade.

If (b) describes the typical scenario in your home, you may want to consider Boundary and Perimeter Training. This important tool can help ensure your dog's safety, and keep both of you secure in knowing who's in control.

What you'll need: Basic obedience training, especially obeying the commands "stay" and "heel," is a pre-requisite.

When you are ready to begin boundary training, you should:

1.-Choose a single vocabulary word (such as "halt," "stop," "door," etc.) that will be applied to this specific exercise.
2.-Get a long, light line that can be attached to the dog's collar during the initial training.
3.-Commit to consistency: every time you open a door, make sure the dog is given a command and made to obey it. This means cooperation from the entire household; if someone lets her escape, all your work will be undone.

Indoor Boundary Training:
Start your training with an interior doorway where the dog won't be in danger if she outmaneuvers you.
Go to the door, but before you open it, take the dog by the collar, move her back from the doorway, look her straight in the eye and say, "HALT!" in a commanding voice. Using your hand as a barrier in front of her face while using the "halt" command reinforces the message.
Eventually, open the door a bit, but not wide enough for her to slip through. If she tries to get out, quickly shut the door, grab her collar, push her back and correct her with a firm "NO!" Give her the "HALT!" command and hand motion again.
Repeat this exercise several times a day using all the doors in your house. Make sure to praise her when she actually does stay!

Outdoor Boundary Training
Before you begin, assess your neighborhood: its residents and its risks.
Walk the dog on a leash around the perimeter of your property several times a day. Do not let the dog roam freely outside.
Each time she begins to wander over your property line, firmly say, "NO," give a little jerk on the leash and walk her back inside the line.
Continue this process several times a day.
Be ready with plenty of positive reinforcements (treats, pats, verbal praise) to reward the dog for coming when called or staying when told.

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Dog Training: Barking at the Door

This week one of my readers asked me if there is a good method of training your dog not to bark when the door bell rings. So, First of all, thanks so much for your feedback! :-)

For the doorbell, you will need a helper; someone to stand outside your door and ring the doorbell over and over for you, while you handle the dog.

You should take hold of the leash, and your helper should go out the door, wait several seconds, and ring the doorbell. As soon as your dog starts barking, tell her to hush and immediately correct her, by getting your dogs attention with a treat in your hand and doing the sit, down or stay command. Then praise her when she stops barking. When your helper hears that she has stopped her barking, he should count to 5, to give you time to praise your dog, and ring the doorbell again. Repeat, repeat, repeat, until the dog no longer barks at the sound of the doorbell, and you can immediately praise him/her.

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